In a nutshell
- Port neighbourhood at the southern end, where the Rocce Rosse rise from the sea east of the harbour and boat trips leave from the same quay.[1]
- Quiet harbour village on the Baunei coast, close to Cala Goloritzè and Cala Mariolu cruises and a short drive below the hill town of Baunei.
- A hamlet of Dorgali in the province of Nuoro, right on the water and closest to Cala Luna, with dinghy trips and wheelchair accessible options.[2]
- Town and marina pair on the lower coast, calmer than the harbour villages and handy for cruises that leave from La Caletta or Orosei.
- Hill bases above the coast for walkers, with the Selvaggio Blu running from Pedra Longa to Cala Luna and the national park on the doorstep.[3]
- Top choice Catamaran with lunch from US$276 Duration8 hours[4]DepartsArbataxGuide languagesEnglish, French, Italian, SpanishRated4.91 from 268 reviews[4]CancellationCancel up to 24 hours in advance[4] Check availability
- Baunei Coast by boat from US$86 Duration9 hours[5]DepartsArbataxGuide languagesEnglish, ItalianRated4.87 from 1,036 reviews[5]CancellationCancel up to 24 hours in advance[5] See this tour
- RIB to Cala Mariolu from US$69 Duration3 hours[6]DepartsArbataxGuide languagesEnglish, ItalianRated4.84 from 705 reviews[6]CancellationCancel up to 24 hours in advance[6] See this tour
This activity is open to everyone. No licence is needed to hire a dinghy, but a minimum age of 18 is required for the driver .
Our verdict on where to stay in the Gulf of Orosei
Getting there and around
- Buses and the coast road link Arbatax, Tortolì, Orosei, Dorgali and Cala Gonone
- Starting times for boat trips appear when you check availability before booking
- Harbour parking near the departure quays is easiest early, before the boats leave
- A car makes the hill villages of Baunei, Dorgali and Urzulei much easier to reach
Sea, sun and bookings
- Summer days are bright and hot, and shade on the cliffs is scarce, so pack a hat and water
- In August the gulf averages 26.5 °C, warm enough to swim without a wetsuit[7]
- Bring a little cash for harbour cafes, kiosks and the small bars near the beaches
- Reserve early: Cala Goloritzé access needs a booking from April to October[8]
Where the Gulf of Orosei really is
The Gulf of Orosei stretches 30 kilometres along the eastern coast of Sardinia, a limestone arc of cliffs and coves below the Supramonte plateau.[9] It sits inside the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu, the protected area that carries the gulf's own name.[10] Cala Luna, Cala Sisine, Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriala and Cala Goloritzè all lie within that stretch of coast.
The coast road runs behind the cliffs rather than beside the water, so no single town stands in the middle of the gulf. You choose a harbour and build the week around it. Cala Luna is on the central eastern coast and is reached from Cala Gonone, a hamlet in the township of Dorgali in the province of Nuoro.[2] South of there, Arbatax and Santa Maria Navarrese serve the Baunei side, while Orosei and La Caletta work from the lower coast.
That shape decides your booking. Ferries and flights arrive at different points along the island, so work out which harbour is closest to your arrival before you choose a room. The coves are the destination, and the towns are mostly the launch pad.
Arbatax and Tortolì: the port base
Arbatax, the port neighbourhood of Tortolì, is the handiest base at the southern end of the gulf. The Rocce Rosse rise from the sea just east of the port, named after the porphyry cliffs, backed by white rocks and tall red granite boulders, so a swim and a sunset walk sit minutes from the pier.[1] Guesthouses and hotels cluster around the harbour and along the road into Tortolì, where restaurants and shops stay open later.
Boat days start a short walk away. The catamaran trip with lunch runs eight hours from US$276, a Baunei Coast day tour by boat runs nine hours from US$86, and a RIB trip to Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzè takes three hours from US$69.[4][5][6] Starting times are confirmed when you check availability, so settle the date before you settle the room.
The pleasure of this base is the walk from bed to boat: a bag left at the room, a coffee at the harbour, a day on the water and dinner in the same place. It is a working port as well as a tour harbour, which suits travellers who put the coast first and the crowds second.
White limestone and clear water where the Supramonte meets the sea.
Santa Maria Navarrese and the Baunei coast
Santa Maria Navarrese is the small harbour village at the southern end of the Baunei coast, with a pebble beach, a low seafront and the road climbing steeply to Baunei village above it. It feels calmer than Arbatax and sits closer to the wildest stretch of the gulf, where limestone drops straight into deep water.
Trips from here aim at the southern coves. A speedboat cruise to Cala Goloritzè, Cala Mariolu and Cala Biriala runs eight hours from US$102, and a maxi dinghy tour in the gulf is limited to 12 participants, nine hours from US$110.[11][12] A guided cruise with pickup included visits Goloritzè, Biriala, Sisine and Mariolu, eight hours from US$102.[13]
If Cala Goloritzè is the reason for the trip, plan the paperwork as well as the swim. Access there requires a mandatory reservation from April to October and is limited to a maximum of 250 people at the same time.[8] Ask what your boat trip includes, and keep a second day free in case the sea turns.
Cala Gonone: the classic boat base
Cala Gonone is a hamlet in the township of Dorgali in the province of Nuoro, sitting right on the water with a long seafront and a marina.[2] Because the village faces the central part of the gulf, crossings to Cala Luna and the southern coves are short, which makes it the classic base for a week of boat days.
The range of trips from the harbour is wide. A three hour boat ride to Cala Luna starts from US$40, a full day on a vintage sailing boat from US$230, and a dinghy excursion to Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzè from US$81, that last one wheelchair accessible.[14][15][16]
You can also take the helm yourself, because no licence is needed to hire a dinghy for exploring the Gulf of Orosei, though the driver must be at least 18 years old.[17] Between boat days, the Grotta del Bue Marino is close along the coast, and adult tickets cost €10 in the ordinary season and €12 in June, July, August and September.[18]
from US$276
The catamaran trip with lunch runs 8 hours from Arbatax and is rated 4.91 from 268 reviews, with a live guide.[4]
Orosei, La Caletta and Dorgali
Orosei keeps a little distance from the water, with pale stone streets, a river mouth and its own marina down the road at La Caletta. Cruises leave from both, and a Gulf of Orosei cruise from La Caletta or Orosei runs 7 to 9 hours from US$78.[19] For travellers who want a room away from the harbour bars, this is the gentler option.
Dorgali is the township that Cala Gonone belongs to, but the town itself sits up in the hills among vineyards and workshops.[2] It makes a good base for walking, with a guided hike into the Gorropu canyon from Orosei or Dorgali starting at US$75.[20]
The trade for both towns is time in the car. You drive down to the harbour on boat mornings and back up in the evening, which is a small price for quieter nights, easier parking and a wider choice of places to eat.
Dorgali, Baunei and the walking bases
Above the coast the country turns to limestone and holm oak inside the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu, the national park that gives the gulf its protected status.[10] The Selvaggio Blu trekking route starts in Pedra Longa and ends in Cala Luna, following paths that hang between sea and mountain.[3]
Baunei, Urzulei and Dorgali are the villages to look at for this kind of stay, and small guesthouses and farm stays among the fields above the gulf often work well. You do not need to walk the whole route to enjoy the setting. Day walks from the villages and from the coast road give you the views without the logistics of a long-distance trek.
Remember that the coast road bends inland around the valleys, so a village that looks close to a cove on the map can be a longer drive than you expect. Check the road before you commit, and treat the harbour as a day out rather than a doorstep.
How to choose your base and what to book first
The question of where to stay in the Gulf of Orosei usually answers itself once you decide how many days you want on the water. If boats are the point of the trip, sleep in Arbatax, Cala Gonone or Santa Maria Navarrese and walk to the departure point. If one boat day is enough, a town such as Orosei or a hill village gives you more space for less planning.
Then book the day that justifies the journey. The catamaran trip with lunch from Arbatax runs eight hours from US$276, with a live guide in English, French, Italian and Spanish and free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance.[4] It fills a whole day, so leave the evening free for a slow dinner.
The best places to stay in the Gulf of Orosei are the ones that fit your boat. Check the water before you pack: in August the gulf averages 26.5 °C, with a minimum of 24.4 °C and a maximum of 29 °C over the last decade.[7] Then recheck the starting time when you reserve, because that is when departure times are confirmed.
August sea water temperature in the Gulf of Orosei
August sea water temperatures in the Gulf of Orosei over the last decade.[7]
Boat day prices from the Gulf of Orosei harbours
US dollar from-prices of the tour listings shown:[4][5][6][21]
When to go and when to book
Planning your stay
Fix your dates
Decide first whether you want several boat days or just one, because that decides whether you sleep beside a harbour or further inland.
Choose your harbour
Arbatax, Cala Gonone and Santa Maria Navarrese all send boats into the gulf, and Cala Luna is reached from Cala Gonone.[2]
Pick the base town
Match the town to your evenings: harbour life and late bars, small village calm by the water, or a hill town with walking from the door.
Book the boat day
Check availability for starting times, then reserve. Free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance covers many of the listings.[4]
Pack for the coast
Sun cream, water, a hat and shoes that grip wet rock. Evenings on deck turn breezy after a hot day, so bring a light layer.
Sail the Gulf of Orosei from Arbatax with lunch on board
from US$277Reserve now & pay later
